There were swarms of skiers getting ready to hit the slopes, to greet us as we walked down the steps of Timberline Lodge—one girl crying because her boots were too tight. The view was so breathtaking we had to just stare, downloading it to our memory disks. Then it was down the mountain.
At Sandy, we stopped for breakfast at the Tollgate Inn Restaurant, well known for its old-timey appearance, great breakfasts, and (in its bakery), the best pecan sticky buns any of us could ever remember eating. Connie almost cried when she gobbled up the last bite. Then we moved on through the town of Boring. I’d waited all my life to tell the story (affirmed to be true) of a certain Pastor Dull of a Boring church—how they’d finally had to move him. Then it was back on boring (pardon the pun) I-5 again.
Once past the bridge over the great Columbia River, we were in Washington at last. None of us were very familiar with the state; in fact, that had been another reason for making the trip: Washington is so far north (like Maine in that respect) that you have to make a special effort to get there. We could hardly wait to explore it more fully.
Finally, we escaped I-5 and turned east on Hwy 12; turning north on hwy 7, and east again on hwy 706. We stopped at the pioneer village of Longmire, famously homesteaded by James Longmire in 1887-8. Longmire was one of the first to bring tourists up to Paradise Valley. When his daughter-in-law first saw its king’s ransom worth of wildflowers (due to the 250 feet of rich volcanic soil), she exclaimed, “This must be what Paradise is like!” It has been called “Paradise Valley” ever since. John Muir later declared it to be “the most extravagantly beautiful of all the alpine gardens I ever beheld.” It was also one of the favorite spots on earth for Stephen Tyng Mather, founding father of our national parks. Mather first climbed Mt. Rainier in 1905; he returned in 1915 to oversee the first road into Paradise Valley (Duncan and Burns, 240).
Ernest, the protagonist in Hawthorne’s “The Great Stone Face,” lived so long in the shadow of that great rock outcropping that his own face came to mirror it. Just so, Washington’s highest mountain (14,441 feet); so vast that it makes its own weather, is so dominating that its image is indelibly etched into the subconsciousness of all those who live within sight of its great white mass shouldering its way into Washington’s sky, reminiscent of Mount Shasta’s dominance of northern California. The sixth recorded person to climb it was John Muir (in 1888). As Muir viewed the wholesale annihilation of Washington’s old growth forests by the voracious logging barons, he felt the Glory of the Northwest was certain to be ravaged as well. He marshaled the forces of the newly formed Sierra Club, the National Geographic Society, and Northern Pacific Railroad tycoon Louis Hill. It paid off: in 1893, President Benjamin Harrison made the mountain the centerpiece of the newly created Mount Rainier Forest Reserve; in 1897, Congress expanded it into the Mount Rainier Forest Reserve; in 1899, with President William McKinley’s backing, it became our fifth national park.
But Mather wanted a hotel in Paradise Valley worthy of its mountain. In 1916’s short summer season, that long-desired hotel was rushed into being. Great Alaska cedar logs were hauled in from an 1885 burn-site. The exterior was shingled with cedar. Two massive stone fireplaces anchor the 50 X 112 foot two-and-a-half-story great hall; later, a wrap-around second-story mezzanine would be added for structural support. The 51 X 105 foot one-and-a-half-story dining hall is almost as grand as the great hall. A fifty-foot stone fireplace fills its north wall. The most enduring furniture was crafted by German-born Hans Fraenke, a local contractor; every year for seven years, found him the first to arrive in the spring and the last to leave in the fall. He hand-crafted (with an adze) the furniture to last—and it has: such things as a 1,500 pound table made of Alaska cedar, two larger than life throne chairs, a fourteen-foot-high grandfather clock, a mailbox made out of a large stump, and perhaps the piece de résistance, a standard piano transformed into an impressive work of art. Architect Laurian Huffman submits that it is this combination of soaring roof line and oversized furniture that makes you feel like one of the Seven Dwarfs entering Fantasyland because you become so small in relation to them. (Barnes, 56).
Barnes notes that, “Over the years, alterations and decorative painting have changed some of the details of the great hall, but it retains the grandeur of its early days. Light streams in from the dormer windows high above the mezzanine, highlighting the repetitive structural framework with posts, beams and trusses that mark the architectural structure of the great hall. Iron rings grip the cedar poles, added to reinforce the splitting timbers, and a system of cables and metal bracing helps support the building against the onslaught of heavy snow. During the 1920s, additional cedar beams were added to create a permanent brace against the snow. The snow! It is one of the snowiest spots on earth: 640 inches the average (sometimes, up to 900 inches!). It has been a constant war every year with Mother Nature to save the lodge from crushing levels of the white stuff. Not coincidentally, units of the 10th Mountain Division in World War II were taught here how to survive winter combat.
A million people find their way into this valley every summer; many of them were in the parking lot; fortunately, we had lodge reservations, otherwise we would have had a tough time finding a parking space. Even though it was almost July, the snow was so deep it was impossible to explore those famed fields of wild flowers still imprisoned in their seeds. Many visitors sat on the outside deck, drinking in Mount Rainier to the north and the also snowcapped jagged Tatoosh Range to the south.
Inside, we entered an island in time. Around us on chairs and couches were people from all over the world. Just across from us was an intergenerational family I shamelessly watched: three adorable little girls who clearly had their doting grandfather totally under their little thumbs; their lovely young mother lovingly running fingers through her husband’s hair—a seraphic look of utter bliss on his face; the grandmother alternating between reading, looking fondly at her granddaughters, and staring at the crackling fire in the great stone fireplace on that end of the great hall. Other tableaus could be found everywhere in the long room. A pianist plunked away on the monster piano—almost always someone was either taking his picture or speaking to him—he played for hours (songs old and new), applause and baksheesh keeping him rooted to his chair. Quite simply, it was America as it used to be.
Later, in the dining room, we lucked out with a window table and stared up at the mountain. Each waiter sported a badge identifying her/him by state or country of origin. Later on, I’ll dedicate an entire blog to them—how they are rising above the recession to see and experience the world. Dinner took a long time for no one—anywhere—was in a hurry to leave that enchanted room.
Afterwards we listened to a ranger speaking about wildlife in the park, we ascended the stairs, found a table, played a game, and devoured the huckleberry pie and ice cream a dimple-cheeked beauty from Eastern Europe brought to us—she got plenty of exercise serving all of us on the four sides of the long mezzanine.
The icing on the cake was a serendipity. Hearing there would be a total eclipse of the moon that night, I took a long walk. On the way back, perhaps the brightest golden moon I’ve ever seen gradually rose above the eastern hills—its radiance was almost unearthly! Photographers were already bringing out their cameras to set up for the 2 a.m. eclipse. I cravenly opted to return to the lodge and sleep instead.
Barnes, Christine, Great Lodges of the National Park I (Bend, Oregon: W. W. West, Inc., 2002). [Her entry for Paradise Inn is a must-read].
Duncan, Dayton and Ken Burns, The National Parks: America’s Best Idea (New York: Alfred A. Knopf/Random House, 2009. [There is much about Mt. Rainier in the book].
“Mount Rainier,” National Park Service brochure.
Scott, Dand L. and Kay W., The Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges (Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 1998, 2009).
“The Tahoma News,” May-June 2010. National Park Service handout.
White, Mel, Complete National Parks of the United States (Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 2009). [Features a most informative section on Mt. Rainier].
Next Wednesday, we move on to Stehekin and Lake Chelan.